She's Likes Seafood by the Seashore

I remember being a little girl driving next to my grandpa in his vintage Mercedes. The smell of leather and Cuban cigars always gently and familiarly wafting in the car. With my little legs kicking up from the warm sheepskin seats, he would roll the windows down...

“Take a deep breath… you smell it?”

I would take a deep inhale and the immediate smell of the sea and salt in the air would wake me up and make me giggle with excitement as it cooled me.

His love for the ocean was the reason I forced down my first squishy bite of calamari, it was the reason my sister, cousin, and I would wake up at 4 in the morning to catch the all-day fishing boat in San Pedro. And with a fishing pole bigger than I was, he taught me the strength, beauty, and mysteries of the sea.

He is the reason, to this day, I know you should only eat seafood in a place where you can see the ocean. (I doubt he would consider the Hudson River a feasible excuse to eat oysters on Grand Banks... but I digress).

In his honor, no matter which beach town I’m visiting from Portugal to Hawaii... I always go on a hunt to find the freshest seafood I can, and this lovely meal was my latest jackpot served up in Esperanza at a local joint called Bili’s. This place was the recommendation of the local friend I had made earlier in the day, and we ordered the calamari, the poke tuna, and the daily paella which came complete with a half lobster.

My love and fascination in finding the most incredible beaches, is always backed by a quest for equally outstanding seafood thanks to my diehard, ocean loving, fisherman for a Grandpa. And I have to say, I think this little pastel ramshackle in southern Vieques would've been right up his alley. 

Where to Stay Spotlight: Vieques

I recently ventured to the incredible island of Vieques, just a short flight (in which I flew in the copilot seat!) from San Juan, Puerto Rico. Within minutes of landing I was drinking a rum punch in the air conditioning of the W Hotel lounge at the airport, checking in and handing my luggage over to my driver.  

The resort was absolutely stunning, and very much my style. With bohemian, technicolor pods for sofas, a fresh juice bar, and panoramic views of the beach… I was in tropical heaven. My large studio room had an amazing balcony overlooking the pool and the ocean. I quickly threw down my suitcases, changed into my bikini and ran for the beach. 

After being escorted to the adult beach, as there is also a separate family one (thank goodness), I laid out, caught up on my reading and finally relaxed. Once I was in a full mediative state from the sounds of the ocean, a cool and cleansing swim, and a healthy dose of Vitamin D, I changed and went for Sunset Yoga. The instructor was very insightful, patient, and thorough… leading a mellow session on the pavilion overlooking the water.

I woke the next day, and got a red Jeep from the car rental company on property (which is extremely convenient for day rentals) and was off exploring the island. I went to Esperanza, which is on the southern part of the island and is filled with quaint seaside shops, restaurants, and bars. I spent the afternoon window-shopping, snacking, and relaxing with another fun dip into the ocean. When I arrived back at the hotel, the concierge had organized a night trip for me to the bioluminescent bay that Vieques is so famous for. I kayaked around the bay in complete shock as the water turned neon yellow and green with every stroke of my ore. It was one of the most incredible experiences in the world and I was still only five hours from NYC. 

The morning before I left, I indulged in their amazing breakfast menu. Ordering caramelized pineapple oatmeal, a fresh fruit bowl, and the smoothie of the day… I soaked in all the wonderful smells, and sights of the resort.

The W Hotel in Vieques is an amazingly modern yet beachy resort that is the perfect place to call home during your time on the island. Whether it was the relaxing yoga, their incredibly attentive staff, or sublime facilities… I had the most magical experience and will be returning to the island very soon. Xx

The Magical Island of Vieques

My recent trip to Vieques was booked 8 hours before my plane took off. After a long weekend of hosting my annual Christmas dinner party and a Caribbean Yacht Week brunch, I took the opportunity to decompress and get some much needed alone time. 

During the holiday season, I love to sneak away to find a little time for myself to reflect on what worked and what didn’t over the year and the fact that this trip was dreamed up the day of departure made it all the more exciting and spontaneous. 

So many people I know find the thought of traveling by yourself extremely scary and overwhelming and are given even higher levels of anxiety by last minute travel plans with minimal thought… I find the combination of these two elements exceptionally exhilarating and makes the trip not only memorable but also magical. 

For those that may not know, Vieques is an island 20 minutes by flight off the coast of Puerto Rico. So in less then four hours… bringing only a few bikinis, a backpack, my camera and a drivers license, I found myself in 80 degree weather on a white sandy beach, drinking a rum runner in the Caribbean. 

After editing a few projects on the balcony of my hotel room, at the W in Vieques. I ordered a green smoothie and passion fruit juice to take a break. When my order arrived, I got to chatting with a Vieques local that worked at in-room dining about my blog and my love of travel after he noticed my FujiFilm camera and tripod. He explained to me that photography was also one of his biggest passions and that he loved shooting and exploring new parts of the island. 

So the next day I rented a red jeep, and Wally and I drove down to Esperanza, on the south side of the island, and ate lunch at an amazing local spot called Bili’s. We ordered seafood paella and ended up shooting a couple looks at Sun Bay, Corona’s and coconuts in hand. 

He told me about the history of Vieques as an island, what it was like growing up there and showed me everything from the best place to snorkel (mosquito pier) to a completely overgrown sugar mill that resembled something out of the movie Tarzan. 

If I had been traveling with other people or didn't trust my instincts to explore and travel on my own, I would have never experienced and learned all about the magical nuances and intricacies of the island. Sometimes, the best way to see new places is to go unapologetically alone to the destination, as it forces you to come out of your shell, ask around and start to emerge with the other travelers and locals around you. 

Vieques really is one of the most beautiful and easy to get to places from the East Coast, while still remaining organically cultured without the over saturation of trying tourists.